The 2004 Bodega Pirneos Parreleta ($16.99) comes from the Somontano D.O. in Spain. Somontano is located in the northwest of Spain, in the Huesca province. It is located between the foothills of the Pyrenees and the Ebro valley. The word “Somontano” translates as “under the mountain.” Local wine stores don’t carry many wines from this region though that is slowly changing. Bodega Pirineos, owned by the Barbadillo family, was established in 1993 in Barbastro. They produce wines made from both indigenous Spanish grapes as well as more international ones.

Parraleta is a rare red grape that is indigenous to Somontano. Parraleta is a small bunch variety of medium compactness. The grape is medium-sized with bluish black skin and a short stem. don’t confuse this grape with the Spanish Parellada, a white grape often used in making Cava.

The 2004 Bodega Pirneos Parreleta is made form 100% Parreleta, the vines being over one hundred years old. It is fermented using traditional techniques and undergoes malolactic fermentation in new American oak, before being aged for another six months. It has an alcohol content of 13% and only about 1000 bottles were produced.

The wine has a rich, dark red color. Initially it had a closd nose and seemed very tight on the palate. But, as I let it sit for awhile, it began to open up. I would suggest allowing this wine to breathe for at least an hour, if not two to three, for it to reach its potential. Once it did open up, I was pleased by what I found. The nose had acquired some raspberry and black cherry with a touch of spice. On the palate, the berry flavors mingled with some pepper, cinnamon and vanilla. It did present a kind of dusty flavor as well, an added level of dryness, which made for a unique flavor. The wine does have noticeable tannins which make this more a food wine. I was having lamb steaks that evening and the wine made a great pairing.

Overall, I very much enjoyed this wine, especially paired with the lamb, and would recommend it as a Drink & Buy.

Italian wines occupy about 20% of my wine cellar. Only California and Spanish wines occupy a higher percentage. I am fortunate that many different Italian wines are available in my area, including some very small and traditional producers. Yet there is still much I want to learn about Italian wines. There are so many indigenous grapes that I have yet to taste. I am always looking for ways to further educate myself about Italian wine.

I recently received a review copy of Passion on the Vine: A Memoir of Food, Wine, and Family in the Heart of Italy by Sergio Esposito. This book was recently published by Broadway Books, an imprint of the Doubleday Broadway Publishing Group which is a division of Random House. It consists of 285 pages, broken into fourteen Chapters and an Epilogue.

“Meat is dead, vegetables are dead, baked bread is dead, cream sauce is dead. But wine is alive, full of yeasts, and ever changing, evolving like a plant or person, a divine creation.” (p.65)

The title obviously appealed to me with its emphasis on Passion. Yet would I find true Passion within those pages? The subject matter drew me in as well, my hopes that I might learn even more about Italian wines. As I began to read the book, I became hooked from the very first chapter.

Passion on the Vine has an easy reading style, very descriptive and with an intimate touch. It is well written and the language can sometimes be poetic. It is educational but never preachy. It presents Sergio’s opinions and thoughts in an appealing manner. It was a real pleasure to read. And I certainly found much passion within it.

Sergio currently owns, in conjunction with Chefs Mario Batali and Joe Bastianich, a wine store in New York City called Italian Wine Merchants. Founded in 1999, this store sells only Italian wines and is dedicated to selling the best that Italy has to offer. Sergio frequently travels to Italy on wine buying trips, and much of the book is devoted to descriptions of a couple of those trips. We then get to meet numerous wine makers, from all over Italy, including famed individuals such as Enrico Scavino, Valentino Migliorini, Giuseppe Quintarelli, Josko Gravner, and Bartolo Mascarello.

“A good wine is good because it tastes good. Basta. That’s enough.” (p.22)

The book is also part biography, describing Sergio’s childhood in Barra, a suburb of Naples, during the early 1970s. We learn about Italian culture, the importance of family, food and wine. When Sergio was 6 years old, his family moved to Albany, New York, for financial reasons. There was much culture shock as Albany seemed so radically different from Italy. Though this is also the time when Sergio first began to love wine. Who would have thought that the movie One Flew Over The Cuckoo’s Nest, one of Jack Nicholson’s best films, would move Sergio even closer to food and wine? To understand that, you will have to read the book.

By the summer of 1998, Sergio had developed plans for his dream, an Italian wine store devoted primarily to traditional Italian wines. He felt that we would find great wines by finding great producers, those wine makers who were passionate about wine and who were not just seeking to make money. That is certainly a philosophy dear to my own heart. I fully agree that it is those passionate individuals who most often bring about greatness. Italian Wine Merchants then opened its doors in October 1999.

“This taste of earth is what everyone refers to as territorio.” (p.140)

Like Alice Feiring, though certainly not as confrontational and controversial, Sergio prefers traditional wines to more modern style wines. He is supportive of biodynamics as well, feeling that such wines just taste better. Terroir, or territorio, is very important to Sergio. Wine should taste of the place where it is made, giving it its own uniqueness. He feels that the traditional Italian wines he prefers are not “Parkerized” wines, that they are unlike many of the big, bold wines Americans are used to drinking. And nearly all Italian wine should be drank with food. Sergio though does sell some modern style wines in his store, though primarily as a gateway to get people to try more traditional wines.

Much of the book is devoted to a wine buying trip to Italy that Sergio took with his parents in 2004. During this trip, they traveled to many different regions, meeting many different wine makers, as well as attending Vinitaly. Throughout this section, there is plenty of information on Italian culture, especially their food and wine. Sergio provides enticing descriptions that make you want to visit Italy. The personalities he encounters are compelling. You certainly won’t be bored.

I was especially intrigued by the modernist Luca Maroni from Montalcino who invented his own rather bizarre and complex wine rating system. For Luca, Quality=Pleasantness=Fruitness. This Q/P/F is composed of Consistency + Balance + Integrity. The top possible rating is 99 points though you need algebra and a conversion table to figure out each specific rating. I don’t think that this rating system will ever become too popular.

“A great wine has harmony, elegance and complexity. And moreover, it tastes natural. And even more important, it has medicinal effects.” (p.199)

My only complaint about this book was it seemed to end too suddenly. I wanted a more satisfying resolution. Maybe I wanted to know more about how his parents felt after their lengthy trip to Italy. But this is a minor flaw in an otherwise excellent book. I definitely recommend this book to both food and wine lovers, especially if you have any interest in Italy at all. It is a compelling read which should please.

It has also motivated me to visit Italian Wine Merchants when I visit New York City this summer. You can look forward to a future report on that visit.

This Grand Tasting had 12 different vendors (11 wine vendors and 1 beer vendor) and there were over 70 wines available for tasting. After having already been at one major tasting, I could not taste all of the wines at this tasting. But I will tell you about my favorites of those I did taste.

I am sure that I missed some other very good wines. I have attended several of these Grand Tastings at OurGlass, enjoyed them all, and they are also very popular with my wine group. There was certainly a diverse selection of wines available, many geared specifically for summer. Besides all the wine, there was cheese, salami and more snacks to nibble on between sips of wine.

I will list my favorites by the distributor so that if you cannot get to OurGlass Wine Co., you might be able to find these wines elsewhere.

Adonna Imports:
Anyone who reads my blog knows that I am a major fan of Adonna Imports. They have an excellent portfolio of almost all Italian wines. It is always a pleasure to see what new wines they have brought.

2005 Castel Noarna Nosiola ($16.99): I recently reviewed this at another tasting.
2003 I Clivi Galea ($23.99): I recently reviewed this at another tasting.
2004 Bianco Aldo Vendemmia, Barbaresco ($39.99): A light colored red wine with great fruit flavors and a complex melange of tastes. Very Old World style and a pure delight. Lingering finish and a perfect wine with food.

Vineyard Road:

2006 Zabu Insolia ($10.99): This Sicilian white wine is made from the Insolia grape. Nice citrus flavors, a touch of minerality and plenty of acidity. A good value wine.
2006 Zabu Nero d’Avola ($10.99): Another Sicilian wine, this time a red, that is light and fruity, a nice summer quaff.

Ruby Wines:

2006 Ipsum Rueda ($9.99): A value wine from Spain. A crisp, fruity white wine with a bit of minerality. Plenty of character for the price.
2006 Vinos sin Ley “G-5 Puerta Bonita” Garnacha ($14.99): A Spanish red wine from Madrid that is 100% Garnacha. Nice dark berry flavors with a touch of earthiness. Smooth and has a decently long finish. Good BBQ wine.

Oz Pacific:

2007 Arabako Txakolina Xarmant ($14.99): I love Txakoli wines from the Basque region of Spain. They are light, fruity and have just a touch of effervescence. A refreshing drink that goes well with many different foods. If you have never tasted a Txakoli, then definitely check it out.
2005 Joan d’Anguera “La Planella” ($21.99): Another excellent Spanish wine that is a blend of 40% Mazuelo, 20% Syrah, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Garnacha. An interesting wine with plenty of fruit and spice flavors. Not too tannic or heavy.

Martignetti Wine and Spirits:

2006 Nasiakos Moscrafilero ($14.99): This is a Greek version of Sauvignon Blanc but without the grapefruit flavors. Nice citrus flavors in a crisp, refreshing wine.
2006 Palicou St. George Red ($14.99): Another good Greek wine, a red with good cherry and strawberry flavors and a touch of minerality. An easy-drinking wine sure to please.

Terlato Wines:

2004 Engelbrecht Ells Red Blend ($39.99): This is a blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Shiraz, 12% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 5% Malbec. A little bit of everything. This is a powerful, spicy wine with dark berry, ripe plum and chocolate flavors. A lingering finish that satisfies makes this quite a delicious wine.

Boston Wine Company:

2004 Spier Vintage Selection Shiraz ($11.99): Bacon! A bold, muscular Shiraz from South Africa with plenty of spicy and bacon flavors. A wine not for the meek.
2004 Spier Private Collection Pinotage ($24.99): Another South African wine that is a milder style of Pinotage, not the earthier type. It has more subtle spice and dark fruit flavors. A mellower wine that was smooth and enjoyable.
2005 Atteca Armas ($49.99): This is the single estate version of the Atteca. And it is everything that the Atteca is, but elevated several degrees. An intriguing, complex wine with a long finish. If you like the Atteca, why not splurge on this.

OurGlass Wine Co.
124A Broadway (RT1 North)
Saugus, MA

The new column has been published today and will soon be available online as well. The new column is a review of The Ginger Pad restaurant in Burlington. This Asian Bistro is inexpensive, gives you plenty of food, and it is delicious. An excellent fast food option.

If you have any questions or comments about my column, feel free to add them here.

Dine with passion.

You can sample this new liquor at a party that is being hosted by Beija at the Alibi Lounge at the new Liberty Hotel on Sunday, May 25, at 9pm. Come kick off Industry Sundays at Alibi with Beija Virgin Cane Rum!

RSVP to Kevin@Beija.net or VIP@Beija.net to receive VIP privileges. Feel free to invite guests. Dress to impress.

If you have any questions, please email me at Kevin@Beija.net.

Here are highlights from the Spring menu:
· Scallops Provencal with Gateau de Riz, tapenade sauce ($29)
· Butter-Poached Maine Lobster Risotto with spring vegetables in cognac sauce ($32)
· Terre et Mer: Blue Water Prawns with Choucroute Timbale and a Grilled Marinated Quail with roasted new potatoes ($29)
· Smoked Paprika & Curry-Dusted Rack of Lamb with roasted long-stem artichokes and garlic-tomato reduction ($34)
· Medley of Spring Vegetable Croustade with tofu and basil drizzle ($21)
· Pot au Feu Style Asparagus Ravioli in tomato broth ($19)

And here are two upcoming events:

June 21: Sandrine’s Bistro celebrates the first annual Make Music Harvard Square event on the summer solstice with talented local musicians performing al fresco al over town, and especially on Holyoke Street. See their website for details and matching prix fixe menus, or learn more about the entire day’s festivities at www.harvardsquare.com.

July 14: Sandrine’s Bistro will host THE Bastille Day party in Cambridge this year with an ultra-authentic French menu priced at just $25 per person all day. Decorations, music and a champagne cocktail called BluBlancRouge will be featured. Reservations recommended.

As a bonus, here is a special new cocktail provided by Sandrine’s Bistro.

The French Night: A summer cocktail with a kick.
1 ½ oz cognac, preferably Remy Martin
¾ oz Cointreau
¼ oz green chartreuse
Shake all three liquors together with cracked ice. Strain into a chilled martini glass.

(You can check out my recent review of Sandrine’s Bistro).

Sandrine’s Bistro
8 Holyoke Street
Cambridge, MA
Phone: 617-497-5300

It is easy to enter and you could win a $100 gift certificate for food or wine. Who couldn’t use an extra $100? The contest is open to everyone. Just go to the First Anniversary Contest website to enter, as well as to learn how to increase your chances of winning.

Good luck!

This Grand Tasting had 13 different vendors (12 wine vendors and 1 beer vendor) and there were over 70 wines available for tasting. I actually ending up tasting about half of the wines. So let me list my favorites of what I tasted. As I did not taste all of the wines, I am sure there were other very good wines that I missed.

If you did not attend this Grand Tasting, you missed out on an excellent opportunity to taste many new wines. I have been to several of the Grapevine Travelers’ Grand Tastings, and they always excel.

I will list my favorites by the distributor so that if you cannot get to Grapevine Travelers, you might be able to find these wines elsewhere. Though some of these wines may only be available at Grapevine Travelers.

Violette Imports:
Violette carries some excellent organic wines and I am always anxious to try whatever new wines they have to offer. This tasting was no exception.

2005 Coturri Rosé ($24.99): The Coturri Winery is one of my favorite organic producers and they have recently produced two new additions to their portfolio, including this Rosé. This Rosé is a blend of 50% Pinot Noir and 50% Carignane. It has a powerful, fruity nose, a ripe pink color and incredible fruit flavors on the palate. It is a bit high on the alcohol content, as compared to many other Rosés, at 14%, but I think it is well balanced. It is not as dry as a French Rosé but not as sweet as some other California Rosés. It impressed me and I was sure to buy some. As an added bonus, this Rosé won’t be officially on the market until August but Grapevine Travelers was able to get a limited supply now! So rush down there to get some before they sell out, which will likely be soon.

2007 Coturri Sauvignon Blanc ($24.99): This is also a new addition to the Coturri portfolio. It is made from 75% Sauvignon Blanc and 25% Semillon. I very much liked this wine too. It had good fruit flavors, plenty of nice citrus but without a predominant grapefruit taste. It was smooth and crisp and definitely a summer pleaser.

2007 Verdad Albarino ($22.99): Verdad Winery is another one of my favorite wineries, a California winery that uses primarily Spanish grapes. Their Albarino was very good, a crisp wine with good fruit flavors and a touch of tartness.

Wine Cask Imports:

2004 Chateau Bianca Pinot Noir ($20.99) is from Williamette, Oregon. Chateau Bianca is new to me and I learned that the wine is named after the wine maker’s sister. This Pinot spent 24 months in French oak. This was a light colored Pinot that was very Burgundian in style. It was smooth and subtle with excellent fruit and a touch of earthiness. It had a decently long finish and was very satisfying. And at this price, this is an excellent value. You don’t find many Pinots of this quality costing under $25.

2006 Chateau Bianca Vin De Glace Ice Wine ($18.99): This is an authentic ice wine made from 100% Chardonnay. This was a delicious wine, only mildly sweet, with a nice honey flavor. I liked that it was not cloyingly sweet. And at this price, this is another excellent value. Another winner from Chateau Bianca.

Pacific Wines:

2006 Ferreiro Albarino ($27.99): Old vine, about 80 years old, Albarino from Rias Baixas, Spain. Good fruit but with more of a mineral taste, similar to Portuguese Alvarinho.

2007 Domaine Richou Rosé ($14.99): From Loire, France, this Rosé is made from the Gamay grape and it typical Old World style. It is dry with subtle fruit flavors of strawberry and raspberry. Very nice summer wine.

Martingetti Wines:

2007 Alois Lageder Lagrein Rosé ($18.99): From the Alto Adige, Italy, this is another very good Old World Style Rosé. Dry, subtle fruit and refreshing.

2005 Ascheri Pelaverga ($18.99): From the Piedmont, Italy, the grape in this wine is the rare Pelaverga. It is a light colored red wine with an excellent flavor of black cherry, raspberry and a touch of spice. It does have somewhat of a different, but good, taste from many other Italian wines though I could not pinpoint the exact flavor. There are some moderate tannins but they do not overwhelm. A good food wine as is typical of Italian wines.

2005 Frog’s Leap Petite Sirah ($39.99): A biodynamic producer from California, Frog’s Leap makes many very good wines. This Petite Sirah is a big, muscular wine with plenty of lush dark fruit and strong spice. Though the alcohol content is only 14.2% which is low compared to many other Petite Sirahs. Grill up a nice steak and quaff down this big, bold wine.

Vineyard Research:

2006 L’Ancienne Mercerie ($14.99): This wine is from the Languedoc, France, and is a blend of Grenache and Carignane. This was an interesting wine that seemed different from the usual. It had good dark fruit flavors with a touch of spice, vanilla and leather. It was a fairly complex wine for this price point and definitely worth checking out.

Aidil Wines:
They had an all Portuguese line-up which delighted me as I think wines from Portugal are very underrated and are often excellent values. And Aidil had what I feel was the top value wine of the tasting.

2007 Muralhas Vinho Verde ($12.99): This wine was a little effervescent with nice citrus flavors and only a touch of minerality. A clean, crisp taste that makes an excellent summer wine.

2006 Conde De Vimioso ($10.99): This was the top value wine of the tasting! A dark red wine with an alluring fruity nose. On the palate, there are ripe plum and blueberry flavors with spicy notes. It is a smooth, easy drinking wine with plenty of character. It is more of an elegant wine rather than just some fruitbomb. At this price, this wine is an exceptional buy. Would make a great BBQ wine this summer, as well as a wine for all year round.

2005 Esporao Reserve Red ($22.99): A spicier wine with more subtle, dark fruit flavors. More complexity and a longer finish. Another very good choice.

Grapevine Travelers
18 High St.
Medford, MA
Phone: (781) 396-8463

“I created this cocktail to honor the tradition of whisky and mint drinks at the racetrack“, says Dale DeGroff, inventor of the “Belmont Breeze”. The cocktail has since become the signature drink of the Belmont Stakes.

A secret ingredient? Dry Sack, one of the world’s finest and most versatile sherries from Spain, It has a fragrant bouquet and a light yet satisfying taste that is neither too dry nor too sweet. “Historically, the racetrack was home to the fine cocktail. Whiskies and sherries were traditional ingredients used in the punches that were served in 19th century racing,” said DeGroff.

BELMONT BREEZE
Original Recipe by Dale DeGroff

1 1/2 ounces Makers Mark Bourbon
3/4 ounce Dry Sack
3/4 ounce Fresh Lemon Juice
3/4 ounce Simple Syrup
1 1/2 ounce Fresh Orange juice
1 1/2 ounce Ocean Spray Cranberry juice

Shake all ingredients with ice and top with half 7up and half soda, approximately one ounce of each. Garnish with fresh strawberry, a mint sprig and a lemon wedge.

Dry Sack was first produced in 1905 from the award-winning Williams & Humbert winery in Jerez, Spain. It is a blend of the finest Oloroso and Pedro Ximenez grapes and is aged for six years under the authentic Spanish Solera System of blending. Dry Sack is the perfect aperitif - priming the palate without overwhelming the senses. Best served chilled in a wine glass, or on the rocks in a short tumbler. Dry Sack is 19.5% alcohol by volume and is available in 750ml bottles. Average retail price $14.99. Dry Sack is imported by Kindred Spirits of North America, Inc., Miami.